The parts I chose for this project were from other projects, in which they made a day counter of the current time with their significant other. I was going to do the same, but wanted to take it a step further: provide a message to the number of days. At first, it was only going to be “Annoying you for XXXX days”, where XXXX is the number of days since we’ve been dating, for a simple gift. Then again, why do you want to read the same thing all the time, with a new number of days. I’ll go into more details for the message when I get into the coding part, but for now, on to the parts list.

Parts

Arduino Pro Mini

(Amazon) This is a small microcontroller, using the ATMEGA328P chipset. Due to its size, it can fit into the smallest, and tightest of spaces. The package comes with header pins, but not soldered on in the package. This is preferred, as I will be prototyping the entire project. On this board, SDA and SCL are A4 and A5, respective, which are located above the A2 and A3 pins, but not labeled. This will be required when connecting the real-time clock (DS3231). Using the Arduino IDE, I’ll choose “Arduino Pro or Pro Mini (5v, 16MHz) ATmega328”, but since this board does not contain any USB port, I’m going to need…

 

 Arduino USB 2 Serial Converter

(Amazon) The Arduino USB2Serial board provides the method for sending my sketch to the microcontroller. On the left side, it provides the micro USB connector for connecting to my computer. On the right, it has the pins which connect to the microcontroller. With the connections made, I will be able to communicate with my microcontroller, and read feedback through the Serial Monitor in the Arduino IDE.

 

DS3231 High Precision RTC (Real Time Clock)

(Amazon) The DS3231 board holds a time stamp much better than other RTC boards on the market. Additionally, it has a CR2032 coin battery (back side) to keep time, even if it doesn’t have an external power source. There are 2 key points to this board, regarding battery power: 1) it only uses battery power if there isn’t voltage coming through VCC, and 2) it allows for recharging of the 2032 coin battery, however, it needs to be LIR2032 (Lithium-Ion Rechargeable). The CR2032 cannot be recharged, but it also won’t damage the battery or board if you use it. The board does not contain any date information, and will always start with January 1, 1970 12:00:00AM (+000), a.k.a epoch time “0” (zero), until one is provided through the Arduino IDE. Once a time stamp is provided (day of the week, day, month, year, hour, minute, second), it will continue to keep time, until no power (DC or battery) is provided.

 

Prototype Perfboard

(Amazon) A single board may suffice for the components, depending on layout and size. Depending on time, I may look into creating my own board manufactured, and building onto it. This board’s pins are independent, unlike a breadboard; no pin connects to another. The corner mounting holes can be used with risers, and placed on a base board, which I’ll most likely have 3D printed.

 

Female DC Power Jack

(Amazon) Depending on the power consumption of the electronics, a 9v battery may suffice, but it is likely that it may require an AC adapter in the long run. In either scenario, the jack can take in either of the connector types: 9v battery pack, and AC adapter. I may choose to run AC primarily, and the 9v battery as backup. The Arduino will remember the sketch I provide, and the DS3231 RTC has its own power source in case Vcc isn’t provided, making an external power loss a temporary inconvenience. Zero data loss is a great thing!

 

2.8″ Seeed Studio TFT Touch Screen Display v2.0

(Amazon) This will probably serve better for a different project, given its touch screen capabilities, but for now, it will work as the picture display screen. I’m also using it because I had it lying around with other Arduino shields. The screen size could present an issue, in which it will not use much of the surface area. This cannot be determined until I’m in the building stage of the jewelry box itself; I’ll worry about it then.

 

SSD1306 128X64 I2C OLED Screen

(Amazon) This screen has a yellow top display, and a blue bottom display. In the top, yellow portion, I’ll have a consistent message, while the bottom will display a different message each day, along with the day counter. I’ll go into details during the coding part, but I’ll work out a message system to have a new message displayed on the screen for the day counter.

 

Conclusion

There are other parts that I’m going to use, but nothing noteworthy: header pins, LEDs for lighting the earring display, and possibly the contents of the drawers themselves. This can be further reviewed as I get closer to the physical build. Until then, I’m going to focus on the coding part next, ensuring that it comes together, displays and all.